Our last two ports of call on this cruise were Cadiz and Malaga, both sites on Spain's southern coast straddling the Strait of Gibraltar with Cadiz on the Atlantic side. The strategic locations of both cities as sea ports had much to do with both keeping the sea lanes in the strait open and opposing the settlements on the African continents, so like Tangiers these sites changed hands from one conquering force to the next. And in both places, there were the remnants of past civilizations that had settled in the area such as Roman ruins hidden under the existing structures. Often, the building materials from previous regimes were "recycled" and/or repurposed in new structures and, in some cases, previous structures were used as the foundation for new ones resulting in layers of architectural findings.
Cadiz is one of these where a portion of the old city was built upon a Roman amphitheater that was recently been excavated. This amphitheater was, apparently, the second largest ever constructed in the Roman Empire (the biggest one was in Pompeii, which we had visited in 2011); this was surprising, as one would think Rome might have had the largest - they, of course, did have the Coliseum. By chance, when navigating the maze of the old city's streets, we happened upon an alley with a bird's eye view of the amphitheater from what, I imagine, might have been above the stage. And a solid foundation for the fortification of Cadiz would have been necessary given the thick walls needed to withstand both bombardments from naval vessels and the might of the Atlantic Ocean, since the city is essentially a promontory that extends from the mainland into the ocean. Along the windward side of Cadiz the rolling waves of the Atlantic Ocean provided a playground for surfers and some excellent beaches for swimmers.
I was familiar with Cadiz through my interest in British history, particularly the reign of Elizabeth I when the English attacked and briefly captured Cadiz under Francis Drake. The main goal was to intercept and, if possible, capture the Spanish treasure fleet coming from the New World. It was, in a way, state-sanctioned piracy, as much of the proceeds went back to the English crown. Cadiz was the main port for the treasure fleets to bring their goods that were then barged up river to Seville. It was also the main port where expeditions were initiated to the New World, of which two were headed by Christopher Columbus. After being attacked and twice sacked by the British, additional castle fortifications were constructed extending out from the city such was the strategic importance of Cadiz. Both of these castles, Santa Catalina and San Sebastian, have since remained completely intact.
When we arrived at Cadiz, the tall ship Juan Sebastián de Elcano, a Spanish naval training vessel was docked to our stern and there was some form of military parade in progress. My initial guess was either a cadet graduation or change of command but we were later to discover that Princess Leonor, heir apparent to the current King of Spain, was a cadet onboard the ship and was embarking with her mates on a 5-month tour as part of her military education. At quayside there was a huge crowd of spectators and police presence since, as it turns out, King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia were part of the send-off. This would be the closest I had ever come to royalty, aside from drag queens, and rather ironic it would that of a dynasty outside the British Commonwealth.
It was a bit of a grey, foggy day in Cadiz - literally the first we had encountered since vacation started on December 25. But this did not stop us from first doing a circuit on the Hop On/Hop Off bus or walking around the old city. There was a lot of interesting architecture to be seen mixed with a variety of narrow alleyways, plazas, parks, promenades, and a number of different stores and artisan shops. The "new" cathedral was quite an impressive and sizable structure in the heart of the old city and just down an alley from the cathedral is the grand theatre that is being restored,
Cadiz is a very walkable city and quite outdoorsy; there were many people out and about, including runners, cyclists, dog walkers, and those just out for a stroll. When we passed one of the beaches there groups were engaged in volleyball and pickleball, as well as a few brave swimmers and surfers out in the water (it is, after all, winter). One of the things we have noticed throughout Spain are the number of motorcycles and Vespas; for many people, this is a primary mode of transportation because it is more economical and efficient than cars. There are few parking spots and parking costs can get quite expensive but also motorcycles and Vespas are cheaper on fuel. Cadiz is quite compact compared to most cities being almost an island, so space is at a premium for parking but also for living - it is one of the most densely populated cities in Europe.
Where the old city of Cádiz’s footprint was constrained by water, Málaga was built on mainland with a mix of sea level and hilly terrain that spreads to either side of the port. Málaga had a more resort feel to it with beaches and condo towers stretching along the coast in both directions but still had the charms of an old city at its centre and a very relaxing ambiance to it. From the ship one could see the fortress running up along the ridge of the closest hill to the port and, at the top of the hill, the Castile (castle) Gibralfaro. From water level one could appreciate the defensive position of these structures in guarding over the port. As we would discover in our trek to the castle, the defenders would have a commanding view over the port and as far as the eye can see on the horizon and up and down the coast.
In starting out on our trek from the ship to the castle, the immediate impression was how clean and well-maintained the promenades were. This is something we have consistently experienced in Madrid, Barcelona, and Cádiz - it seems that the peoples of Spain truly have a great pride in their cities and that cleanliness is a priority. Although this may make sense given the number of visitors who come to Spain, one would think this rationale would be universal to all touristy cities and that is certainly not the case. The other striking feature of Málaga was how much more lush greenery it has with various palm trees, hibiscus trees, succulent plants, and flowering bushes everywhere. Obviously, the Mediterranean side location means it is warmer and more conducive to tropical plants. However, it is evident great planning and care has gone into the inclusion of green space in this particular city - for instance, there is an intentionality of how trees and walkways are brought together to create beautiful, shaded boulevards. Truly, just walking along these strips was both inviting and relaxing with the sunny skies overhead and the temperature approaching 22C. I easily could come back and spend a full week hanging out here; this one great benefit beauty of a cruise - it provides a taster of destinations to identify those areas that one simply has to return to spend more time.
The highlight of this particular stop was hiking up to Castile Gibralfaro - both to explore the hilltop installation and to actually physically make it (being a tad out of shape, it felt like doing the Grouse Grind). The hairpin pedestrian path up to the castle was on flat slate-like surface that, when wet, would have been pretty slick. Going up it did not seem to be that steep, although it was a bit of a cardiac workout. But it was on the way down we realized what a climb it had been…and my legs would tell me all about it later. The reward at the top was an incredible view of Málaga and its port, but also across the Mediterranean Sea to the horizon and down the coast. We could even see into the old bullring. With the sun and clear skies, the vista was quite spectacular.
Similar to most of the other cities we have visited, the inner core of the old city was a maze of alleys, only in Malaga they were a bit wider than the other places. Being Sunday, it was much less crowded here but most of the shops and restaurants were open. There were some street artists at work and also a few hawkers about. The main hub of activity was by the cathedral as mass was done and there was much animated socialization taking place around the main side entrance, while others congregated on the plaza to the front.
We ran into a few tour groups from our ship following the guide whose paddle was held high lest anyone stray from the pack; having done a couple of these excursions on our first cruises I recognize how these are helpful for many people but appreciate the freedom to be spontaneous in my own exploration. What I now find is that if I have a cheap cellular plan and ability to use an eSIM card, it is easy to Google information on the fly and to consult Google or Apple map apps to independently navigate new places. And so ended the visit to our last port of call for this cruise and back to the ship in anticipation of our last day at sea.
Comments