GA Day 35 (January 9) - alas, our final day in Buenos Aires had arrived. Although a short visit, we had gained familiarity with the city’s general layout and where the main barrios were located that will benefit a future visit - with so much yet to see, experience, and taste, a future visit is a must. As well, I really would like to do the cruise from Buenos Aires to Antartica; that would have been the next sailing of the Eclipse had we stayed aboard. Next year!! 🤭
On the eve of our respective departures we went for a final dinner and stroll past the obelisk. We had a lovely steak dinner at Tuscon that was located just a few blocks from the obelisk - the meal was great, the wine exceptional, and then the dessert. 😋
One of the benefits as a visitor here is the power of the Canadian (USD or Euro) currency. Not only is everything less pricey than at home but our dollar goes much further here…beneficial for another visit!
Jean left for Santiago enroute back to Montreal late morning but my flight was not until quite late, so I hung out in the A/C comfort of the Marriott, set up camp in a corner, and started to attend to some of the outstanding admin work. It was really comfortable and great, as the staff continued to provide great service. Once again I must make a plug for the Marriott Buenos Aires - great location, wonderful staff, fabulous breakfast, and the executive suites are gianormous!
Now the story about traveling to Florianopolis. Mon dieu - what an adventure that was! 🙄 First, the check-in with GOL airlines, which is one of two main Brazilian airlines. There were several flights out, a few hundred people…and only 4 agents for check-in. This at a high peak holiday time. Following general directions and using common sense, or so I thought, I went an hour earlier than usual thinking that would be appropriate for an international flight. There was no kiosk for GOL unlike the other airlines where you could get your flight pass and baggage tags - it all came down to the 4 agents. And being holidays, there was a mix of big families, business people, and young holidayers…people fly more than drive here for lengthy destinations. So, after waiting patiently in line for an hour and making new friends (tech geek from Houston and a lovely Danish couple headed to Sao Paulo) I got to the front of the line where the ticket agent said “We are not ready to check you in for your flight.” 😵💫 Seriously?? So I asked “Why would an airline make people stand in line for an hour without any guidance to now find out there is no check-in for a particular flight?” What came from my mouth was a much better version than what was playing in my head. The agent, a kind young man, looked at me in a mix of shame and horror offered, without much hesitation, to check me in and hold my luggage behind his kiosk. “Mucho gracias!” Oh, but one bag is 3.5 kg overweight so you need to go to that wicket over there (pointing to other end of terminal) to pay the fee - are you OK with that? Like I have a choice…the other bag is not near the max weight but is smaller with no room. Plus, I was sure I would be mobbed if I even opened a suitcase to repack. But the ticket agent also said I could come straight to him once I paid the fee and he would issue the boarding pass…off I went.
And guess how much 3.5 kg overweight costs? For international travelers - $15 USD per kg (domestic travelers pay $10 USD per kg). Of course everything is rounded up, so it was about $81.00 CDN. Back to the wicket I go and, sure enough, my luggage is parked behind the agent and he hands me my boarding pass. Next step…security check to gain entrance to immigration clearance. And here another backlog with literally hundreds of hot, cranky passengers in a stagnant hot, humid line-up (no A/C) for two security screening lines. I was so thankful I had gone so early because many of the GOL passengers needed to get to Sao Paulo or Rio de Janeiro to connect with overseas flights (many of these were cruise ship passengers). The Danish couple were 45 minutes from their flight time and I imagined many more were in the same boat…er, plane. After 30 minutes I finally got through the line but security was really lax compared to what we go through in Canada and the US…you heap everything into one single bin except for computers (they get their own). And most people were waved through with only the occasional pat down or wanding. At this point I was almost 2 hours into processing and there was still immigration to clear.
The line-up for immigration snaked for about 8 or 9 hairpin rows and the holding tank was like a sauna. I was dripping sweat and could only think how gross it would be sitting next to me in tight quarters. Eeew! I was blessed with an aisle seat, so only the lucky person to my left and a few passing butts would touch me. Somehow the Danish couple had ended up right in front of me and they were almost panic-stricken by this point - they found out boarding for their plane had been delayed by 15 minutes, but the line was not moving quickly and they were down to about 20 minutes. Some people with time pressures were trying to butt in ahead or go under cordons; there were was a lot of gesticulating and loud vocalizations. Finally, someone in Immigration got wise to the problem and then they started prioritizing - “all those for Sao Paulo flight come this way!” and “all those for Rio de Janeiro come this way!”. Of course, many others who were waiting in line became indignant and disgruntled but by now security had shown up to exert their calming presence 🙈
I finally got to the front of the line about 30 minutes later grateful that my planning had probably ensured boarding my plane on time and saved my sanity. You may recall from one of my earlier posts the ordeal of securing a visa to gain entry to Brazil - a requirement that was put on hold just days after I finally got my piece of paper. Well, the simplicity of crossing borders became much more efficient - digital thumb print and a picture, then through the process and right into duty-free. I was dehydrated, thirsty, and a tad tired and grumpy…but at least I was through with 45 minutes to spare. But I felt sorry for some of the families who, by this point, had tired, hungry, and frustrated kids to deal with. I observed spousal units trying very hard to spell each other off whilst calming the kids - no doubt many were so wanting to be at their destination by now but, of course, there was still a flight to somewhere ahead of them.
Boarding onto the 737-800 Max was quite efficient - Grupa 1, Grupa 2, and then whatever…get on the plane. The plane’s seat configuration was designed for maximum capacity…guess that is one of the reasons it is called a "Max". No business or premium economy classes here - just get your tush into your assigned sardine seat and buckle up. Also, no entertainment modules (yup - low cost all the way) so, fortunately, I had my iPad for reading - more Game of Thrones at the parts leading up to the Red Wedding…how prophetic? There were a few cranky kids hard to settle but I could totally empathize with them - I was tired and cranky, too. And while all this boarding was happening the cleaning crew came on to do their thing (😳) and swamp out the bathrooms carrying pails, rags, and mops down the aisle. So much for public health protocols. But we pushed back from the terminal almost right on time and we were off.
The first part of the flight was pretty uneventful - smooth take off under darkening evening skies (it was about 9:00 p.m. by this time) and the cabin lights were almost completely off. About 1/2 way through the crew came through with both immigration and customs declaration forms specific to Brazil; it seemed odd that immigration needed to be done again, especially as the visa restrictions had been postponed, but the customs form I understood. I had my details at the ready and obediently filled out the forms. Almost immediately a sandwich and beverage service came through - this was unexpected; however, the ham and cheese croissant was most appreciated. And then…turbulence just as the pilot announced a descent.
Actually, turbulence was an understatement - the plane started to yaw and roll quite dramatically as flashes of lightning could be seen around us. As for the descent, it was the first accelerated approach I had ever experienced; usually descents are quite gradual and prolonged over about 30 minutes but we quite literally were nose down and you could hear the revving of the engines. For short periods there were would be a peaceful lull and then the violent bouncing and turbulence would start again. There was a hush throughout the cabin - people were gripping the seats ahead of them but not saying much of anything. Oddly, there was not one cabin announcement during this time. It was top of mind for me that this flight might not have a good ending, a thought I have never had on any previous flight and there have been many. But for some reason I just had a calm feeling thinking if this was it, well - there isn’t much I can do about it.
After what seemed forever, the plane finally leveled off into a more normal descent but there still was much bouncing and turbulence. Outside visibility was very poor and there was driving rain on the cabin windows. Suddenly the engines throttled right back, the landing gear was lowered (thud!), and the approach lights at the end of the runway were almost within reach below us as we sped towards the tarmac.. It was a hard landing with a bit of a hoppy bounce, and the plane did one of the hardest reverse thrusts I’ve ever experienced. Then, as the plane slowed to turn off the runway, the whole cabin exploded in applause. I was never more happy to disembark…just needed to get through Customs and Immigration with those forms and collect my luggage.
But heading to Customs and Immigration many people still had not filled out their two forms - yes, the ones provided to us 1/2 way through the flight. So many were scrambling to find pens and documents to answer the questions, holding up the line 🙄 But suddenly this customs angel appeared unto us saying “Lo! I bring you glad tidings of great joy - you don’t need the forms.” 🤦♂️ Into another corral and wait for a customs officer to wave you to their booth. No words, just present the passport, get the stamp, walk through…
There were two good things about this trip. First, the wait at the carousel was very short…the luggage had already started to come through and my two pieces were together and intact. The second good thing, and the absolutely the best, was that my host, Angela, and her son, Arthur, were there waiting for me. It was the most wonderful feeling to have arrive safe and sound to my final destination and to see Angela again.
It was about 11:30 p.m. before we arrived at Angela’s home and had a brief visit over a glass of white wine. Here I was, in Florianopolis, Santa Catarina, Brazil - the start of Phase 2 of my Grand Adventure. It was dark and rainy on my arrival so I was not able to see much, but when I awoke the next morning at 6 a.m. the view outside my bedroom window was amazing! Lush tropical vegetation and high hills completely surrounding the neighborhood. I would soon discover that the whole island (Florianopolis straddles a strait on both the mainland and the island) is a series of mountain-like ridges…I am glad I did not know that before the accelerated descent into the airport.
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