Château Versailles…sigh!

If I was impressed by the Château de Chantilly for its simple (but opulent) elegance, the Château de Versailles took awe to another level. It is one thing to see it in pictures, documentaries, and TV series but nothing does justice to being there in person. The grand scale of the palace, the estate with its expansive gardens and secondary buildings, and the sheer decadence is beyond comprehension until one does the tour…the full tour.

Versailles, under King Louis XIV, became one of the largest and most opulent palaces in the world, growing from a “modest” hunting lodge getaway of his father to its current glory. Of course, as the world’s longest reigning monarch (over 72 years), Louis XIV had a lot of time to devote to Versailles’s construction and, because he hated Paris (and Parisians), to live there. It became the seat of government where much of the royal family, king's mistresses, and the court (including ministers) resided. Also known as the “Sun King”, his public image had to be one radiating extravagance and power.

The day was grey and rainy to start but, knowing that there would be a lot of indoor terrain to cover, not much would dampen our spirits on this day - it was something I had been looking forward to planning this trip. Even though I had bought the second earliest entrance tickets I was amazed by the number of tourists already there, especially in what would normally be off-season. And, of course, planning meant being there very early to connect with our dear friend who was joining us. But there was so much to absorb just in the queue at the front of the palace - the architecture of the facade and roof lines, glittering golden gild, and the people. In spite of the number of people already there, the line and security check went quickly…on went the audio guide transponder and the tour began.

Those familiar with Louis XIV will know that his dalliances with mistresses was very well-known and very public. I will come back to that a bit later but mention it now because the first main palace attraction was the huge royal chapel - the very paradox of religion and monarchy that was not unique to French royalty (think Henry VIII). I have been to a good number of cathedrals and chapels in other places around the world, but I think this probably was one of the most ostentatious places of worship I had ever been in…there was nothing very humble about this venue and I am pretty sure it was meant to rival the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City. I also suspect that, in addition to ego, such investment in honour of the church was probably to pay off on many venial and cardinal sins. Throughout the main palace and the smaller ones there were much smaller chapel areas for worship, often just off the boudoir 🤔

A main attraction at Versailles is the famed Hall of Mirrors. While it was impressive in length and lighting, the overcrowding really did not allow one to appreciate the scale and I must say it was not my favourite part. I found the gold gilding a bit too garish for my liking, although I suspect if the court was there in the day’s fashion and colours that there would have been a lovely contrast. And the number of candles required a potential fire hazard. Indeed, the great hall with the painted vault ceiling and gigantic hearths was much more appealing - some ornate, decorative qualities coupled with the openness and rich frescos overhead made the spacious room more comfortable. I quite prefer elegant simplicity to over-the-top ostentatiousness…and with age I seem to be trending to uncluttered minimalism. One thing that did amaze me, though, was that in spite of the revolution that followed two reigns later and the resentful mob mentality that ensued so much of Versailles remained intact to be restored to what we see today.

Outside Versailles to the west stretches the vast gardens and enclosure of the grounds. While a benefit to coming this time of year is less crowds and cooler temperatures to walk the downside is lack of greenery and blooms. One can imagine how spectacular it would be during the Summer and Fall once leaves and blossoms are in full swing, especially once the fountains were primed and in operation. While the grounds were originally restricted to the royal family and court, they are now open to anyone free of admission (a good tip to know if you simply want to come for the outdoors) and there many runners, walkers and cyclists out for the exercise. With the myriad of paths along the Grand Canal and crisscrossing through the woods, it is an ideal place for running - sort of like Stanley Park but much better groomed.

After a brief trek, we ended up at the Grand Trianon…the home away from home where the King, his family, and his mistresses could retreat from the hubbub of the main palace for some downtime. In fact, the Grand Trianon was meant for personal leisure away from court and government life, although ministers might bring urgent matters here as needed. In comparison to Versailles, the Grand Trianon was quite simple in its overall design and scale of decor but it still was an impressive piece of architecture and very well-crafted. From the marble floor and accents to the brilliant use of windows for natural lighting, the spaces were set out for maximum efficiency and more aligned for personal use. There was much less use of ornate sculptures, moldings, and gilding with more painting and trim as we have in our current homes. There were also many innovations incorporated into the design, such as cooling stations in some of the salons for an early version of air conditioning for the Summer and mechanized features (e.g. lifts). To the front of the Grand Trianon was its own private gardens that was much simpler than the main grounds but every bit as planned and groomed. 

Across the courtyard from the Grand Trianon is the Petit Trianon, a much smaller and more intimate mini palace that was built by Louise XV for his favourite mistress, Madame de Pompadour. However, she died before it was completed, and so it went to his next favourite, Madame du Barry (I know…it is hard to keep everyone sorted!). As manors go, it really was much more practical and, I assume, much easier to keep clean with its very simple, smooth finish - mainly marble and stone. The living quarters were on the second floor with just a few sets of rooms the lady of the house and her ladies in waiting and few guests. On the main floor was a main entertaining hall and dining area, while the basement housed storage and the kitchens (the latter were later moved to outside facilities because the smell of prepping and cooking meals was…bothersome. When Louis XVI ascended the throne, this became the main residence of Marie Antoinette who disliked the political court in Versailles and, against court etiquette, invited few close people that included some men. While the optics were not well-regarded, it does not appear there was hanky-panky but this set Marie Antoinette out from the main court and did not foster endearment - she already struggled being an outsider.

As if creating problems within the court was not enough, Marie Antoinette’s next move would surely highlight her detachment from reality and not endear her to many in the rest of society. Because she wanted to experience the life of a peasant (🙄), the Grotte de Marie-Antoinette (the Queen’s Hamlet) was constructed - a collection of various structures to resemble a hamlet with each building appearing as a humble lower class home on the outside and quite decadently furnished on the inside. Each building also served a particular function, so the barn was a dance hall and there was a chalet that was the Queen’s room while another served for banquets. Each building had a producing garden and there was a functional dairy on the grounds along with livestock (apparently groomed sheep with bows on them). I totally understand that escapism can be seen as healthy and even necessary for coping but I am not convinced that mimicking one’s subjects, when classism and tension between the people and nobility was already a problem, is ever such a brilliant idea. So ended the day and an enjoyable visit to Versailles...I think I shall have to come back for another round.