I See London, I See…

I had my first visit to London as a teenager in Summer 1980 on a concert band tour, my first time flying overseas and, actually, the first time ever on a jetliner. Although I was an avid reader and fascinated by history, being 16 years old and amongst a group of 99 other bandmates meant less of a focus on the historical and cultural experience…it was more about being a teen, the thrill of being away from home and, of course, the music performances. Certainly I saw a lot while there - Westminster Abbey, Whitehall Palace, The Mall, and Big Ben. But the visit was pretty superficial and hurried. However, it did whet my appetite to delve more into history and to dream about going back one day. The opportunity arose earlier this year with connections I had made on cruises, a couple (Garen and Glen) from Hammersmith and another couple (Tim and Ben) in Tooting, located on the periphery of the City of London.

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After a night flight from Montreal to London, I arrived safely at Heathrow airport and was amazed at how efficient the process was - long walk from end of Terminal 2, sailed through border control (Canadian passport has its privileges), and my luggage popped out at the carousel all within about 20 minutes. I was met by Garen (Bobby) on the underground platform and off to Hammersmith we went. After I had a quick freshen up we walked along the Thames to Chiswick gardens and the borough of Chiswick. Then, after a nap (night flights and jet lag do not mix well with age), it was off to a quaint coffee shop. It was a most gorgeous day to explore the quaint streets, green spaces, and interesting architecture that all made for a delightful first day in Jolly Ole. And the design of row housing gave a wee vibe of upscale Coronation Street!

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Day #2 was a full day of exploration led by my intrepid tour guide, Garen, and we managed to clock 21,000 steps in the process. First was a stroll through South Kensington into Kensington Gardens and through the park at the rear of Kensington Palace. There was a much scaffolding around parts of the palace with a lot of maintenance and renos in the works. This is not surprising given the age of the palace that pre-dates Queen Victoria who grew up there. Sadly, Will and Kate were not home for tea, so off we went to the Italian gardens for coffee near The Serpentine. This body of water provides a great social area with paths along the waterway, lots of greenery, and an Italian-inspired plaza at one end. It was a spectacular day and there were lots of people enjoying the outdoors, locals and tourists alike. Then it was off to the area around the Prince Albert memorial, Royal Albert Hall, and the Imperial College. The architecture is really quite fascinating with a range of different styles. It was easy to spot reconstructed portions of buildings that had been heavily damaged during The Blitz, and the pock marks of blast damage was visible on some structures. After a quick bite for lunch at PJs (great food) we went to the London Oratorio Cathedral and the Victoria and Albert Museum (VAM). The VAM is an incredibly immense space with huge exhibition halls and a variety of different themes. I will need to return someday to see many exhibits that we did not get to, but what I did see was absolutely amazing…especially the sculptures. The final stop, just to check it off the list, was Harrod’s…way too posh for my pocket book, but I can now say I was there.

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Day #3 was more sedate starting out with a wee walk along the River Thames before heading to a coffee shop for coffee and breakfast sandwich. The tide was way out but later, on another similar walk for lunch, the tide was up and the Thames was spilling its banks as it often does. Garen and I linked up with Tim for another delightful walk, talk, and lunch on a boardwalk along the Thames. As the weather has been quite remarkable there were blooms everywhere…daffodils, cherry trees, magnolias and camellias all showing their finest. And I have to say I very much loved the cozy feeling of the small boroughs, like Hammersmith and Tooting, that make up the London metropolitan area - so much character and vibrancy! Lots of cute neighborhoods with a variety of shops, restaurants, coffee shops, and other interesting venues. In Tooting there was an outdoorish market food court…kind of like a shed with a huge variety of fabulous eateries that was a fun dining experience.

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As has become a bit of a routine when visiting a large historic city, I wanted to start with a Hop On Hop Off bus tour to get oriented to London. So Day #4 was bus tour day  and Tim, being the good sport he is (and not having done this tour here), found a great deal with TopView that included different tour routes including a boat on the Thames. Before hopping the bus we did a bit of walking around Leicester Square, the Chinatown area, and parts of Soho in the early morning. Everywhere one looks there are billboards for musicals and theaters, as well as other other novel attractions. Neon lights, sculptures, signs, building facades, and historical artifacts give this area such a whimsical vibe.  It really turned out to be another great day with brilliant sun for the bus tour and, surprisingly, there were not a ton of tourists so we ended up on the top deck with great seats. It was so neat seeing the buildings and landmarks so familiar from movies and reading up on history…St. Paul’s cathedral, Big Ben, the London Bridge, Westminster Abbey, Tower of London, and more. The variety of old and new architecture is quite striking, especially how well preserved some of the older structures are. For instance, the White Tower, part of the Tower of London, is one of the oldest intact structures dating back to 1070 under William the Conqueror. But there are also remnants of Roman ruins, such as old walls near the Tower of London and the amphitheater under Guildhall, from the second century CE.

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On Day #5 it was off to Clapham, another beautiful borough of London that is quite upscale but with a quaint feel to it. Clapham has lovely architecture, green spaces and charming little shops. We had brunch in a more typical English pub, and I had to try the Mac & Cheese Croquettes along with the traditional roast beast with Yorkshire pudding 😋 How quintessentially British is that? Then on Day #6, the first overcast and cooler day, Tim and I went downtown to take the Blue Route of the hop on/off bus so that I might finish my general orientation to London. So many more historical points of interest - Regent’s Park, Hyde Park, the Marble Arch and Speaker’s Corner, St. Pancras/King’s Cross stations, and a lot more. And for the afternoon it was the British Museum and the Hawaii, Egyptian, Roman, and Assyrian exhibits. That was really all we could pack in this visit as the place is immense. I think it was at this point, realizing how much history and culture there is, I knew I would only scratch the surface this trip.

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I started Day #7 off with a solo foot tour to explore the sights of downtown London. I have to say the Underground is brilliant and provides so many options to get around the metropolitan area - it is pretty efficient and, usually, very busy with commuters. I decided to go to the London Bridge station and cross the Millennium Bridge to St. Paul’s Cathedral then walk along The Strand. There was a lot more lots historic sites to see such as the Nelson monument in Trafalgar Square, the Royal Courts of Justice, and Sommerset House. Being on foot one appreciates the scale of these grand structures, the intricacy of ornate masonry, and the incredible expense of building…and maintaining. Unlike many historic places, especially churches, in other countries there were fees for absolutely everything…and I became quite selective where to spend my money. I also found Canada House on the edge of Trafalgar Square and should have gone in - it certainly has a prime piece of real estate. I think I have found a new favourite city, right up there with Rome and Barcelona - I could simply walk for days to soak up the sites, sights, and sounds of London. For the afternoon it was an IMAX theatre treat of Project Hail Mary with Tim and Ben (kind of ironic to watch a Canadian actor in a Canadian format of film!). Although it was a pretty good movie I have to say it departs somewhat from the book and for the purists might be a challenge. There was a bit more wandering around and killing time before heading to my first of two musicals in London. Fittingly, given my affinity for Tudor history, it was Six that essentially was a singing storyline of Henry VIII’s wives. As it happened, the show received its platinum record for the musical’s recording at this performance.

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Day #8 in London was another action-packed day starting with a solo stroll from Green Park to the front of Buckingham Palace down The Mall towards the parliament block. Again, no shortage of sights (and sites) to be seen as The Mall is lined with royal estate manors, including Clarence House, on one side and St. James Park with all its paths on the other side. I will say that timing for this visit could not have been better as the weather has been extremely good with minimum rain and it is not overly crowded with tourists. The afternoon involved taking in a screening of short films at the British Film Institute and watch some flicks specific to LGBTQ+ issues. The talented Tim did the sound mixing for one of them, so it was especially great to see his work in action. Afterwards it was out and about to explore the area around Whitehall Palace, and the main parade grounds for the Household Calvary guards. I even got a little glimpse of the street that goes to #10 Downing Street.

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The itinerary for Day #9 started with exploration is a few components of the Imperial War Museum (IWM) that has several sites spread throughout London. I have always had a fascination with World War 2 history that carried through my days as an air cadet and, then, in the reserves. So the IWM was a must given my lifelong interest in war, the politics that drive it, and how it influences the course of our world. The first part to visit was Churchill‘s War Rooms that are located adjacent to number #10 Downing Street and close to the Parliament buildings. As luck would have it, Tim and I were just 10 minutes into the museum tour when alarm bells went off and everyone was asked to vacate the building. Somewhat ironic to be heading out of an emergency bunker! While waiting for the all clear, we managed to connect with another couple from Ottawa. The war room tour gives a pretty amazing historic account of both the war operations and of Winston Churchill himself. One can only imagine what it must have been like huddled in these underground quarters while bombs rained down on the city above.  The IWM visit was an amazing experience and very informative from the British point of view. And the whole day became a sobering reflection on the extremes between war and terrorism and the pure delight of creative culture…some of it all happening in the same geography of Soho, the theatre district of London. Later, I would join Tim and Ben at the Admiral Duncan, a gay club that was bombed by a neo-Nazi extremist - a reminder of the tragedies the LGBTQ+ has and continues to face. But the drag show and friendly crowd at the Admiral Duncan on this night reminded me of the resilience and vibrancy of our community. As was The Devil Wears Prada musical - OMG! Music by Elton John and Miranda’s character, played fabulously by Vanessa Williams, was amazing! A must see for anyone going to London.

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Day #10 was one of rest, more or less, with the day spent in Tooting to read, relax, and do a little bit of work on CHNC conference planning. Ben suggested another musical so that evening we went to Avenue Q that was, essentially, an adult version of Sesame Street that has won many awards with great puppeteering and comedy wit. The Dominion Theatre, in which it is playing, was really quite charming and for the price of reasonable seats on the ground floor we scored a box. Afterwards, it was another stroll in the Soho area with Tim and Ben to go for a night cap with the buzz of a Friday night and colourful façades.

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I went on another solo adventure to start Day #11 with a visit to the Tower of London, one of the most historical sites in the UK. Built by William the Conqueror, the Norman duke who established the monarchy in England, the Tower of London has served as a fortress, palace, prison, armoury, and royal treasury since 1078. It is situated on old Roman ruins and parts of the original structures remain the foundations of the White Tower at the heart of the complex. Elizabeth I was imprisoned here under her sister, Queen Mary, and her mother, Anne Boleyn, was both imprisoned and executed here. True to form, the famous Beefeaters maintain a watch over the grounds and the ravens continue to flourish in the fortress. Then it was a walk across the Tower Bridge, not to be confused with the London Bridge, and a tour through the Borough district.

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I started Day #12, Palm Sunday, with a stroll around downtown Tooting and was surprised at the numbers of people out and about. It looked like most people were headed to the churches in keeping with the religious occasion. The diversity of the community is quite evident from the ethnic and cultural mix of peoples and shops on the main streets of the borough center. As with our cities in Canada, there were visible signs of poverty and social challenges found in urban areas. To me, the neighborhood look and feel was very comfortable and appealing - perhaps "charming" is an apt descriptor. In the afternoon, Tim, Ben, and I went to the Royal Opera & Ballet to see Rigoletto. What a musical treat that was with excellent performers, beautiful staging, and brilliant acoustics. I had always wanted to experience an opera in a major European city, so ✅for that bucket list item. After that, we went out for dinner in the downtown area for a great set menu of delicious Asian fusion foods.

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For my final day in London, the London focus was a visit to Hampton Court Palace, which is probably one of the most historical sites in London next to the Tower. This particular palace was started as a large mansion by Cardinal Wolsey, first minister and chief advisor of King Henry VIII, but its opulence caught the eye of many courtiers who did not care so much for Wolsey. Sensing his fall from grace following his failure to secure the divorce of Henry VIII from Catherine of Aragon, Wolsey gifted the palace to Henry. It became Henry’s favourite residence and had many additions made to it during his reign - ironically, one can still see evidence of both Wolsey's and Anne Boleyn's crests in the architecture. Subsequent monarchs added to Hampton Court but William III and Mary made the biggest expansion of the palace that included more state rooms, apartments for courtiers, kitchens (including one just for chocolate!), and the gardens.

There is so much yet to see of London that I will simply have to return. And, of course, there are many other places in England and the UK to explore. I am so grateful for having this opportunity and the generosity of Garen, Tim, and Ben (and Bondi!), whose gracious hospitality and fabulous company made this a truly memorable experience. Thank you so much! ❤️