2026 Starts in Spain

Cruise escapes became our favourite way of vacationing way back on our “honeymoon” trip in February 2010; that first cruise was my second sailing but Jean’s first. We went on a two-week Caribbean jaunt with two dear friends when the college I was teaching at closed during the Vancouver Olympics. So it should be no surprise that, once again and to start off 2026, we would be found on the Celebrity Constellation ringing in the New Year. Almost exactly a year earlier we had enjoyed the same ship and itinerary so much that this was a repeat with very few changes to ports of call. It would also be our fourth sailing on the Constellation (where our habit started in 2010), a ship of the Celebrity Millennium class, that is medium in size, intimate compared to larger ships, and homey.

New Year’s Eve supper was a lovely affair as we were joined by Tim and Ben, a delightful couple from southeast of London who we had befriended early in the cruise. Rare is it that we connect with others on a cruise and wind up spending time both on and off the ship, but in this instance we ended up having most suppers and other social times together as a group. We had so much fun and laughter over great food and drink, that this would be how we would end 2025 and ring in 2026. I should note that this would be the first time in 19 years that Jean and I would stay up long enough to welcome a change of calendars…neither of us are night owls, preferring early to sleep and early to rise. There were four different areas of the ship where the countdown to 2026 was done and we ended up in the large Reflections Lounge forward on Deck 11. It was an energetic crowd fueled by lots of free champagne and loud music - much merriment was had. A most memorable start to the year!

The cruise started and ended in Barcelona, a city that has become one of my favourites in Europe. Aside from some locals who detest tourists (there has been a bit of unrest and political action in this regard), most people in Spain are lovely, welcoming, and generous in spirit. It is important to note that Barcelona is the major center of Catalonia and many Catalans do not identify as being Spanish - they have a distinct language and Catalonia is an autonomous community of Spain.

On arrival back to Barcelona we took a quick TGV train ride to Zaragoza, capital of the Aragon region. Zaragoza was originally one of the regional capitals for the Roman empire under Caesar Augusta, first emperor of Rome. Among the first visits Jean and I made was to sites of Roman remains, including the forum, the theatre and the baths. Zaragoza has a nice old city centre, but the architecture outside of the city centre is quite different than that of Barcelona and Madrid - somewhat more austere and run down. As with much of Europe, Catholic churches are everywhere and most are open to the public. The main cathedral on the city’s main plaza was quite striking outside and inside, but photography of the interior was forbidden which is quite rare.

Most days in Zaragoza were cool and grey start, not totally surprising given it was winter, that made it perfect for walking. On the second day we headed off to the Palacio de la Aljafería, a Moorish fortified palace that was eventually conquered by Isabella and Ferdinand. As with many structures elsewhere in Spain, much of the Moorish architecture was maintained and then added to, so one can see the difference in styles. Unlike Isabella and Ferdinand, who were the instigators of the Spanish Inquisition, the Moors allowed the other religions to freely practice, so one can see the varied styles of churches dating back from Roman times to the present since structures were preserved. We also went to the ruins of the old Roman port after a lovely walk along the Rio Ebro.

On day #3 in Zaragoza we stopped at the museum of the Roman theatre and were impressed by the preservation of the theatre and the way the museum is built on the remains. In its day (1st to 4th centuries) it held 6,000 people and was the hub of entertainment. Museums are free the first Sunday of every month so many people were out and about.

And being the Christmas holiday season, there were lots of regional people in the city and not as many foreign tourists like us. In a way, that was one of the reasons we picked Zaragoza since it was off season, off the beaten path, and relatively inexpensive for a vacation. As well, with the heat of the summers, the crowds, and the forest fires, we have made a conscious decision to avoid much of Europe from mid-June through to mid-September.

The other reason for selecting Zaragoza was to experience the regional difference in culture, food and, of course, wine. From a cultural perspective, it was still the high holiday of Christmas and we had noticed over several days barricades being set out along main streets, including outside our hotel. We literally ended up with front row seats from our window to the epiphany parade, a significant celebration to end the Christmas holidays in Spain. Zaragoza's Epiphany Parade, the Cabalgata de Reyes, is a grand procession on the evening of January 5th, featuring the Three Kings (Melchor, Gaspar, Balthasar) on floats or camels, accompanied by themed characters, music, and lots of candy tossed to kids. This magical event culminates the Christmas season in Spain, leading to children finding gifts the next morning, January 6th, the actual Epiphany Day.

Because Epiphany Day is a civic holiday everything was closed with the exception of Starbucks, a few restaurants, and patisseries selling the celebrated Roscón de Reyes cakes. The cakes were everywhere and, with tradition, there is a prize hidden in cake - whoever gets it can wear a crown. The streets were pretty much deserted aside from those people buying cakes 🤔 So we had coffee, did laundry, and I completed final revisions for an accepted publication. And then returned to the hotel room to eat…cake!

The food was excellent everywhere we went, whether the traditional paella and tapas dishes that are core to Spanish cuisine, or the wholesome entrées of rich stews and winter fare. Eating in Zaragoza was tricky as most restaurants are only open 12 - 4 pm and then 8 - 11:30 pm…and posted times seem only to be a suggestion in many places. I am not one who prefers to eat late - hate trying to sleep on a full stomach and it is not healthy (GERD, anyone?). Nonetheless, there was no shortage of food and prices were surprisingly economical.

Then there was the wine. Zaragoza is in close proximity to La Rioja and Navarre that is one of the most famous Spanish wine regions. Being winter, we tried out a number of red Rioja vintages - I don’t think there was one we did not like. In fact, I would say that there was a consistency in the wines that I had not experienced before. I do believe a future trip needs to include the La Rioja region…maybe make it part of an El Camino trail pilgrimage.

On day #5 we took an hour long train ride north to Huesca near the foothills of the Pyrenees; it was once the capital of Aragon and at least three sovereigns ruled from there. Lots of churches but the main sites included the old walls and towers, the monastery of San Pedro le Viejo, and the cathedral. The monastery was old and relatively small but magnificent with original frescoes and many interesting stone features. In comparison, the cathedral is quite massive and took some time to explore. We did the steep and tight circular stairs into the bell tower…almost all 180 of them. There was a peek-a-boo view of the horizons through the steeple openings. Then we found this amazing restaurant, Galatea, that had a two course meal, dessert, and full bottle of wine (that was delicious) for 18€ each - the food was such great quality and well-presented. Afterwards we went for a walk around some of the old walls that have survived since the early Roman times and that have been incorporated in more recent architecture. Huesca had some devastation during the Spanish civil war in the 1930s having been besieged by the Nationalists under Franco, so there are more modern structures built into some of the ruins.

Then on day #6 we took the train to Calatayud for a short visit to this small (and shrinking) city to see a very medieval centre, old Moorish castillas and walls, and the remnants of the old Jewish quarter. The visit was made shorter by a late train - compared to France, Spanish train stations are nicer but the trains are rarely on time and customer service sucks. Calatayud originated as a Roman centre that was sacked by the Visigoths and then the Moors. Under the Moors there was religious tolerance so Christianity and Judaism thrived. But under the Spanish unification and subsequent rule of Isabella and Ferdinand, the Inquisition and expulsion of Jews and non-Catholic converts led to almost complete annihilation of Jewish and Muslim culture. Synagogues and mosques were converted to churches but, interestingly, Moorish style was incorporated and/or maintained in the architecture.

Then it was back to Barcelona and the end to another incredible time in Europe. But before leaving we had dinner at one of the best Italian restaurants in Barcelona - Merivecchi. This was our third time to this restaurant and I would recommend as a must for anyone going to Barcelona. The service is great, the food absolutely delicious, and such a nice ambiance. Reservations are a good idea as it is quite popular for supper.

At the end of this trip I was definitely ready to return to Canada as I had been in Europe for just over 90 days (cruise time is not counted in the maximum limit). Time to start the next phase of my life journey and I have a plan…TBA. Adios, BCN! Until October 2026…👋